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Apr 01, 2023

Wine, etc.: Spring is a great time to find unique wines that appeal to an adventurous palate

Spring is one our happiest times of the year. The worst of the weather is behind

Spring is one our happiest times of the year. The worst of the weather is behind us. We can break out the short-sleeve shirts, return to the barbecue and get the boat ready to launch. We’re sure most of you have taken the patio furniture out of storage and maybe started a garden.

We love to use the time to experiment with alternative white wines that can deliver a foil to the tart or sweet flavors of fresh fruit and vegetables. While there are plenty of occasions to drink chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, there are other wines from Spain, South Africa, France and California that perform better with fresh produce.

While you might not be able to find the following producers, search instead for the grape variety. These wines were chosen because they are unique and appeal to the adventurous palate. They are great happy-hour sippers or they can complement the simple foods of spring: salads, raw vegetables, fruits, cheese and entrees like chicken and fish.

Gerard Bertrand Orange Gold 2020 ($25). Seven Mediterranean grapes go into this astounding orange wine that pays tribute to the ancient techniques invented in Georgia 4,000 years ago. Grape skins are left in contact with the juice longer to give the wine an orange color. This one has a fresh appeal with dominant peach and apricot notes. We loved it as an aperitif but it would do well with sushi, curry and cheese.

Souleil Vin de Bonte Le Blanc 2022 ($18). This is a delicious blend of piquepoul, terret blanc and ugni blanc — aromatic grapes with good acidity and layers of pineapple, orange and stone fruit. From southern France, each grape variety is vinified separately in stainless steel tanks to preserve the bright fruit character. The zesty acidity gives it a nice edge to pair with salad or cheese. "Souleil" means sun in ancient France, which is what we yearn for now.

Zenato Lugana San Benedetto 2020 ($18). A relatively obscure region of northern Italy, Lugana is known for its trebbiano di lugana grape variety. This wine is luxurious with big apple, pineapple and pear flavors.

Circa 77 Xanadu 2022 ($18). We love the sauvignon blanc and semillon blends of Australia. This one from Margaret River has the simple, fruity character for spring and summer sipping. The good acidity. Citrus and tropical fruit notes.

Lucy Pico Blanco 2022 ($26). The Pisoni brothers have created an interesting, expressive white wine from a blend of 85% pinot gris and 15% pinot blanc grapes from Monterey. White peach, pear and sweet pineapple notes with a touch of minerality,

Inman Family Wines Pinot Gris 2021 ($40). The Russian River Valley produces more than pinot noir and chardonnay. This gem from Inman has stone fruit, tangerine and citrus notes. Long finish and expressive aromas.

Kenefick Ranch Pickett Road White 2019 ($24). We enjoyed this Rhone-like blend of grenache blanc, marsanne and viognier for its refreshing melon and tangerine notes with a dash of lemon. Light and easy drinking.

Meeker Knight's Valley Viognier 2021 ($45). Lucas Meeker took over the winemaking after his father died last year. Ready to celebrate its 40th anniversary, the Sonoma County winery continues to churn out excellent wines. This viognier has pronounced tropical fruit and peach notes with a soft mouthfeel and long finish.

Tenute Rubino Giancola Salento IGT 2021 ($25). This malvasia bianco from the boot of Italy is fermented in stainless steel tanks and gets no malolatic fermentation. The result is a crisp, clean and thirst-quenching white wine with apricot and pear notes.

Radio Boka Verdejo 2021 ($12). Vivid citrus and apple notes with a bit of zest and bright acidity — a perfect combination for a vegetable platter or just by itself.

Gotas de Mar Rias Baixas Albarino 2022 ($25). We love these refreshing, crisp wines from northern Spain because they are perfect sippers and they do well with fish. Floral aromas with peach and mineral flavors are a great way to introduce spring to your palate.

Etude Pinot Gris 2020 ($32). Guava and ripe melon notes with a bit of stone fruit and citrus. Round in the mouth, it would do well with a cheese board or simple fish preparations.

Protea Chenin Blanc 2022 ($16). This South African wine has peach and lemon aromas and apricot flavors. Slightly sweet and fruity.

Larkmead Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($125). This venerable Calistoga producer continues to produce great cabernet sauvignon as one of the oldest family owned wineries in Napa Valley. Founded in 1895, it produces full-bodied wines that can age a decade or more. We recently tasted a 2016 version of this wine and it was still developing. The 2020 had floral, plum and cocoa powder aromas followed by black cherry and plum flavors, firm tannins and balanced acidity.

G3 Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($15). Another terrific value from Washington state, this ripe and ready chardonnay has tropical fruit and tangerine flavors with a bit of spice. Simple yet delicious.

Landmark Overlook Chardonnay Sonoma County 2021 ($27). Ripe apples and pears with a nice touch of minerality. Not over-oaked but balanced.

Ettore Mendocino PURE Chardonnay 2019 ($28). Made from organic grapes, this gold-tinted chardonnay has a floral bouquet and buttery, tropical fruit flavors with a hint of vanilla.

Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at [email protected].